Glencadam 10

The Maker

The Highlands distillery of Glencadam is almost a microcosm of the wider rises and falls of the Scotch whisky industry. Founded in 1825, in the early years of legislated distillation, Glencadam has come and gone through the various whisky booms and busts of the last two centuries. It’s had multiple owners and even spent two World Wars as army barracks. Yet through closures and the tightening of its belt when necessary, the brand is still here and now seems stronger than ever.

For much of its life the distillery has been contributing towards a number of historic blends such as Gilmour Thompson & Co’s ‘Royale Blend’ in the late 1800s, and Ballantine’s in the mid to late 1900s. This petered out at the turn of the millennium and the distillery shut its doors in 2000.

But, given the nature of the sector, it turned out to a short-lived closure of just three years. After which the ownership transferred to the incumbent Angus Dundee Distillers - who also own Tomintoul distillery. Again, initial production went back into blended whisky, but it was the 2008 re-launch of the Glencadam line which saw the distillery transform into its current guise, with the first release of its single malt range.

In subsequent years new lines have been added and production increased to about 1.5 million l/y. In doing so Glencadam has quickly established itself as the producer of well-respected age-statement whiskies which are perhaps reminiscent of an earlier time. Glencadam attribute much of this to the shape of its stills. They have been using the same two traditional pot stills since 1825 and they have a unique lyne arm design (where spirt flows out of the top of the still) with an upwards angle of 15 degrees – they tend to be horizontal or downward in shape.

I have to confess to being rather sceptical of this kind of thing. So many distilleries make a big deal out of the angle or length of this bit of piping and how it makes a huge difference to the final product. Maybe it does, maybe it doesn't. But I suspect it's always going to be just one of a whole number of factors which influence the final flavour/texture whisky. But that’s by-the-by for this review. The Expression

As this is my first Glencadam, I’ve gone in on the ground floor with the ex-bourbon matured 10-year-old. I’ve heard it described by the ever brilliant @Aqvavitae as a ‘Hero Whisky’, due to its dependability, affordability, and downright pleasantness to drink. Given that it’s bottled at the ever popular 46%; uncoloured; non-chill-filtered; and carries that age statement I can easily see why. It’s basically hitting all elements of whisky’s ‘golden quadrilogy’ - if such a thing exists.

The Neck Pour

On first tasting it really lives up to its delicate sales pitch. It’s such a light dram. Lots of pear, vanilla, honey on both the nose and the taste make it very pleasant indeed. Over time it develops into something a lot more toffee like, with some hints of lemon peel in there for good measure. There also a good dose of freshly cut grass in there which lingers into a long and warming finish.

My initial thoughts are that this is a great introductory whisky to give to friends who may be fearful of whisky due to past experiences. It’s subtle enough not to blow people’s minds, but also complex enough to encourage discussion. As someone whose natural territory is among the Islay malts this is a refreshing change of pace.

The Body

Working my way down the bottle I find that what I’m now getting is something a lot closer to white wine on the nose. That light crispness of something like a chardonnay that works do well in the British summer. This could just be because I’m writing this during a July heatwave, but I’m finding the Glencadam to be the perfect drink for our high twenties' evenings at the moment as everything just starts to cool down for the night.

Final Thoughts

It may have cooled down a fair bit as we get toward the end of August, but I'm not enjoying this whisky any less. The strong vanilla and honey sweetness has come back to the fore, supported by a light toffee and cut grass.

I've enjoyed this bottle so much over the last few months that I've already ordered a bottle of the Glencadam 15 to see how the extra few years further develops the flavour. Hopefully I'll get that review out at some time in the autumn. Until then I can't recommend this enough. It's a very fine, and affordable dram suitable for whisky newcomers and established fans.