Simply Whisky Memories [Blair Athol]

The Maker

Simply Whisky is the passion of two business partners who have been running whisky related events since 2006. These events range from tasting sessions for minor European royalty and corporate events for major brands, through to ticketed public tastings based around a novel boxing format.

All releases from Simply Whisky come in pairs, beginning in late 2020 with an unnamed Irish and the increasingly rarely spotted Clynelish. I reviewed a miniature of the Clynelish alongside the core 14yo release several months ago. In short it put Diageo to shame (perhaps a common theme of indi releases). Since then there have been several more dual releases with the company securing a sales platform through the Whisky Exchange of London.

Over the years I’ve managed to try a few of these, including a really impressive Benrinnes which is still available direct from Simply Whisky’s website. Each one has been very impressive but this is the first time I’ve treated myself to a whole bottle. In doing so I noted that the majority of releases have been from Diageo stock, but of late there does seem to be a little bit of variation with the latest release being from Israeli’s Milk and Honey. Hopefully that bodes well for their future given the rumours that Diageo are now sharing less stock with indi bottlers. I can’t help but think that this might be due to how much better the whisky is when they are not filtering, colouring, and diluting it.

The Expression

Memories is a single cask release from speyside Diageo workhorse Blair Athol. The distillery is best known in single malt terms for its place as a 12yo in the Flora and Fauna series, but is also frequently available as indi releases at a wide range of prices. Founded in 1798 and currently with a capacity of two and a half million litres, Blair Athol is principally used in major blends like Bells and is known for its strong sherried style. Yet in addition to Bells its sweetness means that it also makes a significant contribution to Johnnie Walker Blue. A sure sign of the spirit’s versatility!

This version was matured for 11 years in a refill bourbon hogshead and bottled at a very healthy 51.6% ABV. As you’d expect from any decent independent bottler it’s non chill-filtered and of natural colour. Only 265 bottles were yielded for sale, which suggests that the hogshead might not have been full to the brim. It cost £65 in the summer of 2022.

The Neck Pour

The nose on this is intensely sweet. While it claims to be that hogshead, it's hard to believe this isn’t a full on Sherry bomb. Add in the colour after 11 years and anyone would be forgiven for thinking it was also a first-fill cask. The sweetness is so extreme that it’s like sticking your nose in a pick-n-mix bag of icing sugar and candy-canes. Once you’ve overcome that intensity it settles down and is followed by hefty doses of vanilla and citrus - in the form of candied peel.

On the palate it’s surprising that the sugar isn’t what comes first given that nose. Instead it’s all about the cask char and alcohol. Again, while this might only be a refill cask, there’s so much activity here that simply doesn’t drink like one. Yet despite that initial cask strength it remains very drinkable need.  This is due to that sweetness coming straight back after the char, followed up by a richer texture that grows towards dark chocolate and liquorice. Before finally being joined by a more savoury (almost meaty) note that ends with a big dose of pepper and spice.

It’s hard not to like this dram, despite the experience of it not really matching the statistics provided. If given blind I suspect most people would swear this to be a first-fill sherry, or maybe something that spend a decade in bourbon then finished in a very active Sherry octave for the final year. Either way it was definitely bottled at just the right time to maximise the Blair Athol experience.

The Body

Coming back to this review four months after opening I am still getting that intense sweetness and char. So much so I've decided to look up what others think of this release online. It seems there’s plenty of wider surprise that this isn’t sherry matured. Maybe it's just the most intense bourbon barrels ever, or something odd has gone one in the maturation process to produce a bit of a beast. Trying it alongside several other Blair Athol it’s clear that the distinctive taste profile is there, it’s just that this is a particularly good example of it, and easily the best I’ve had.

In terms of developments, all that has really happened is that everything has become a bit more rounded and harmonious. Given the intensity upon opening this can only be a good thing as it makes the whole experience that much more accessible without diminishing what’s best about it.

Final Thoughts

Blair Athol isn’t a distillery I would ever turn to first in normal circumstances. That intense sweetness that’s mostly destined for blends can be a little off putting. I have to confess to buying this on the recommendation of Ralphy. I don’t normally buy as spontaneously as when watching a YouTube review, but there must have been something about the positivity and availability of the bottle that evening that was too much to resist. Regardless of what it was I’m glad to have experienced it and will likely be more open to getting another indi Blair Athol in future.  

As the bottle comes to its end after 18 months it’s still full of those rich sugars. But there’s also a nuttiness developing. It strongly reminds me of a bag of sugar coated almonds you sometimes get at a good Christmas market. When it's combined with the thick texture it’s approaching marzipan on the finish.